How to choose a perfume: a beginner's step-by-step guide
New to perfume? Our step-by-step guide to choosing a scent: fragrance families, notes, testing on skin, EDT vs EDP, seasons, budgets, samples and decants.
By KnowYourScent Team · Updated · 6 min read
Walking into a perfume shop for the first time can feel overwhelming. There are hundreds of bottles, the air is full of scent, and after three sprays everything starts to smell the same. It is easy to walk out with something you regret, or with nothing at all.
Choosing a perfume gets much easier when you break it into steps. This guide takes you through them one by one.
Step 1: Start with what you already like
Before you smell a single perfume, think about smells you enjoy in everyday life. Some examples:
- Fresh laundry, clean soap or a sea breeze
- Lemons, oranges or freshly cut grass
- Flowers in a garden
- Wood, campfires or old books
- Cakes, coffee or chocolate
- Spices from your kitchen
Your answers point you towards a perfume family. You do not need to know any perfume words yet. You just need to know what makes you happy.
Step 2: Learn the main perfume families
Perfumes are often grouped into families based on their main character. Here are the big ones:
- Fresh: citrus, green and watery scents. Think bergamot, lemon, cut grass and sea air. Light and easy to wear.
- Floral: flowers are the star. Rose, jasmine, tuberose and lily of the valley. Can be soft and pretty or rich and heady.
- Woody: dry, warm or earthy woods such as sandalwood, cedar and vetiver. Calm and grounded.
- Amber (sometimes called oriental): warm, rich and resinous, with notes like amber, spices and incense. Cosy and often long-lasting.
- Gourmand: edible notes like vanilla, caramel, coffee and chocolate. Sweet and comforting.
- Aromatic: herbs like lavender, rosemary and sage. Clean and slightly sharp. Many classic men's scents sit here.
Most perfumes mix two or more families, such as a "woody floral" or a "fresh woody". Pick one or two families that match your answers from Step 1. That alone cuts down your choices a lot.
Step 3: Understand notes
Perfume descriptions list notes. These are the main smells you can pick out, not a full list of ingredients. They usually come in three layers:
- Top notes: what you smell in the first few minutes. Often citrus or light herbs.
- Heart notes: the main character, showing up after the top notes fade. Often flowers or spices.
- Base notes: what stays on your skin for hours. Often woods, musks, resins and vanilla.
This matters because the first spray is not the whole story. A perfume that opens with sharp lemon might settle into soft, warm wood an hour later. Always judge a perfume on how it smells after it settles, not just the first sniff.
If you see a note you don't recognise, look it up in our guides. Each one explains what the note smells like in plain words.
Step 4: Test on paper first, then on skin
Paper strips are good for a quick first round. Spray, wait a few seconds, then smell. Write the perfume's name on the strip so you don't mix them up. Use strips to narrow a long list down to two or three favourites.
Skin is where the real test happens. Your skin's warmth and texture change how a perfume smells and how long it lasts. The same perfume can smell different on you than on a friend.
Tips for testing on skin:
- Test no more than two or three at a time. Use one wrist, the other wrist and maybe an inner elbow.
- Don't buy right away. Walk around for a few hours. See how it changes and whether you still like it later.
- Notice how you feel. Does it make you smile? Or does it feel like "too much"? Trust that.
- Give your nose a break. If everything starts to smell the same, step outside for some fresh air. Some people also sniff their own sleeve between tests.
Step 5: Understand concentrations
The same perfume often comes in different strengths. The exact levels vary by brand, but in general:
- Eau de cologne (EDC): the lightest. Fresh and fleeting.
- Eau de toilette (EDT): light to medium. Good for daytime and warm weather.
- Eau de parfum (EDP): stronger and usually longer-lasting. A good all-round choice.
- Parfum or extrait: the richest. Often sits closer to the skin but lasts a long time.
Be aware that an EDT and EDP of the "same" perfume can smell slightly different, not just stronger or weaker. Test the exact version you plan to buy.
Step 6: Think about seasons and occasions
You don't need a different perfume for every day, but it helps to know what works when:
- Hot weather: fresh, citrus, green, aquatic and light florals.
- Cold weather: amber, woody, spicy and gourmand scents. Warmth helps richer perfumes feel cosy rather than heavy.
- Work and small spaces: lighter, cleaner scents, with fewer sprays.
- Evenings and special events: richer, bolder perfumes.
If you only want one perfume, a fresh woody or soft floral scent tends to work in most seasons and settings.
Step 7: Set a budget
Perfume comes at every price level:
- Budget: high-street and drugstore brands. Some are very good and widely loved.
- Mid-range: big designer brands found in department stores.
- Luxury and niche: smaller perfume houses and high-end lines, often using rarer materials or more unusual ideas.
A higher price does not guarantee you will like it more. Decide what you are comfortable spending, then look for the best match inside that range.
Step 8: Use samples and decants before buying a full bottle
A full bottle is a big commitment, especially at the luxury end. There are cheaper ways to try a perfume properly:
- Samples: small vials many shops and brands give or sell. Ask at the counter.
- Discovery sets: boxes of small bottles from one brand, so you can try several scents.
- Travel sizes: small sprays, often 10 ml or less.
- Decants: small amounts poured from a full bottle into a smaller spray bottle by sellers or friends. Buy from trusted sellers so you know what you are getting.
Wear a sample for a few days, in different weather and settings. If you still love it after that, it is a good sign.
Step 9: Choose for you
The best perfume is the one you enjoy wearing. Labels like "for men" or "for women" are marketing, not rules. Trends come and go. Compliments are nice, but your own pleasure matters more. When in doubt, choose the scent that makes you feel most like yourself.
Ready to start? Browse perfumes by family and note on Explore.
FAQ
How many perfumes should I test at once?
For skin, two or three at most. On paper strips you can try more, but your nose will tire after a while. Take breaks and come back later if you need to.
Should I buy a perfume on the first visit?
It is usually better to wait. Perfume changes over a few hours, and the base notes are what you will live with most. Wear it for a day, then decide.
Is it better to buy a perfume online or in a shop?
If you can, test in a shop or try a sample first. Buying a full bottle online without smelling it is a gamble, unless you already know the perfume well.
What is a "signature scent", and do I need one?
A signature scent is one perfume that someone wears almost every day, so it becomes linked with them. It is a nice idea, but not a rule. Many people enjoy having a small collection for different moods and seasons.