What does cypress smell like? The scent of a Mediterranean hillside

Picture a row of tall, narrow, dark green trees lining a road in Tuscany or Provence, baking in the summer sun. That is the cypress, and its scent is just as recognisable. It is green and resinous like a pine forest, but drier, warmer and more refined. Perfumers use it to give fresh scents a clean, upright, outdoorsy feel.

What does it smell like?

Dry, green and woody, with a resinous, slightly smoky edge. In one breath you might notice:

• Evergreen needles: like pine or juniper, but less sweet and less "Christmas tree"
• Resin: a clean, sticky, sap-like note
• Dry wood: warm, sun-dried branches
• Smoke and minerals: a faint smoky, stony quality, like hot rocks in summer
• Herbs: a light, aromatic, almost spicy freshness

Cypress oil is mostly a top and heart note. It is bright at the start and fades faster than heavy woods like sandalwood. Its drydown is soft and slightly amber-like.

Where it comes from

The cypress used in perfume is the Mediterranean cypress, also called Italian cypress, Cupressus sempervirens. The Latin word sempervirens means "always green". It is the tall, narrow, column-shaped tree seen all over southern Europe, North Africa and the Middle East.

Most cypress oil for perfumery comes from France, Spain and Morocco, with some from other Mediterranean countries.

Cypress belongs to the cypress family (Cupressaceae), which also includes junipers. Some of the woods sold as "cedarwood", like Virginia cedar, are actually members of this same family. In Japan, a related tree called hinoki (Japanese cypress) has its own famous, lemony-woody scent and is used in baths and temples.

How it's made

Cypress oil is made by steam distillation of the leaves (needles), twigs and small branches. Steam passes through the plant material and carries the oil out, and the oil is collected as the steam cools. The amount of oil from each batch is small, usually around 1% of the weight of the plant material or less.

The main aroma molecules are:

• Alpha-pinene: a fresh, piney molecule found in many evergreens
• Delta-3-carene: a sweet, resinous, slightly earthy note
• Limonene: a light citrus freshness
• Cedrol: a small amount of dry, woody character, also found in cedarwood

A short history of cypress

Cypress has been a symbol in the Mediterranean world for thousands of years.

• Greek myth: In the story told by the Roman poet Ovid, a young man named Cyparissus accidentally killed his beloved stag. In his grief, the god Apollo turned him into a cypress tree, a symbol of eternal mourning.
• Cemeteries: Because of that link with grief and with eternity (it is always green), cypress trees have been planted in cemeteries across the Mediterranean and the Middle East for centuries.
• Persian art: The cypress is a common symbol in Persian gardens, poetry and carpets, often linked to life, freedom and eternity.
• Gardens and landscapes: Rows of cypress trees became a signature of Italian and French country landscapes, painted by artists including Vincent van Gogh.

Cypress in modern perfume

Cypress is usually a supporting note. Perfumers use it to:

• Give fresh colognes a dry, green, woody base under citrus
• Add a clean, upright structure to woody and chypre perfumes
• Support vetiver, cedar and patchouli
• Add a smoky edge to incense and leather accords

A notable early example is Eau d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal (1981), a bright Italian-style citrus cologne with cypress in the background. It is still one of the best-known cypress-citrus scents.

Real vs synthetic cypress

Cypress oil is natural, affordable and widely available, so most perfumes use the real thing. Perfumers may boost it with synthetic woody or piney molecules, but there is no need to replace it.

Cypress oil is generally considered a low-concern material, though, like most natural oils, it can irritate sensitive skin if it oxidises (ages in contact with air).

What cypress pairs well with

• Lemon, bergamot and grapefruit: the classic Mediterranean pairing, fresh and sunny.
• Juniper and pine: create a forest or gin-like effect.
• Vetiver and cedar: give a dry, elegant woody base.
• Incense: together they smell like a cool stone church.
• Lavender and rosemary: add a herbal, Provençal feel.
• Fig: an unexpected but lovely green, milky combination.

Perfumes to try

From bright to dark:

• Eau d'Hadrien by Goutal (formerly Annick Goutal): lemon and grapefruit over cypress. Sunny and elegant.
• Cipresso di Toscana by Acqua di Parma (Blu Mediterraneo line): green, woody and very Italian.
• Italian Cypress by Tom Ford: a fresh, herbal, citrusy take on the tree.
• Eau des Baux by L'Occitane: cypress with incense and vanilla. Warm and affordable.
• Encre Noire by Lalique: mostly a vetiver scent, but its dark cypress note gives it much of its character.

How to wear cypress

• Fresh, citrusy cypress scents are perfect for spring and summer, and for hot, dry weather.
• Darker cypress-incense blends work well in autumn.
• Because cypress is a fresh note, it may fade faster than heavy woods. Reapply in the afternoon if needed.
• It suits daytime, office wear and casual settings.

Who will love it

People who like fresh, clean, outdoorsy scents. Anyone who loves the smell of Mediterranean holidays, pine forests or gin. Cypress is also great for people who want something green and woody that isn't sweet.