What does Le Labo Santal 33 smell like? Notes, history and who it suits

Le Labo Santal 33 is one of the defining perfumes of the 2010s. It started as a niche scent from a small New York perfume shop and became something you could smell in cafés, bars and trains in cities around the world. It is worn by men and women alike. This guide explains what it smells like, how it was made and who it suits.

What does it smell like?

Santal 33 is usually described as creamy, dry, woody and a little smoky, with a leathery edge. Many people say it smells like sandalwood mixed with something sharper: pickles, dill, new leather, or even a hint of a cedar pencil shaving. That odd, slightly sour twist is a big part of its character.

It is not a soft, milky sandalwood in the style of traditional Indian sandalwood perfumes. It feels drier and more modern, like wood, skin and a little campfire smoke together.

Here is how it is commonly described as it develops:

• Opening: a quick hit of spice from cardamom, with a soft, slightly powdery floral touch from violet and iris. Some people notice a sharp, green or "pickle-like" note here.
• Heart: the sandalwood and cedarwood take over. It turns creamy, dry and woody, with a light leather feel and a faint smokiness.
• Dry-down: warm, smooth and skin-like. The leather and the ambery note sit close to the body, leaving a soft, woody trail.

The notes

Le Labo's notes for Santal 33, as given in the original launch information, are:

• Australian sandalwood
• Papyrus
• Cedarwood
• Cardamom
• Iris
• Violet
• Ambrox (Ambroxan)
• Leather accord

Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) smells drier and greener than the classic Indian sandalwood (Santalum album). That helps explain why Santal 33 is less creamy than many people expect from the word "santal", the French word for sandalwood.

The story behind it

Le Labo was founded in New York in 2006 by Fabrice Penot and Eddie (Edouard) Roschi. The brand is known for its lab-style shops, where perfumes are mixed by hand at the time of purchase and the label is printed with the buyer's name.

Le Labo names its perfumes after one key ingredient, followed by a number. The number refers to how many ingredients are in the formula. So "Santal 33" is a sandalwood-led perfume made with 33 ingredients.

The scent was created by perfumer Frank Voelkl and launched in 2011. Its story starts earlier. Voelkl first suggested a sandalwood fragrance around the time Le Labo opened, but the founders did not feel it was strong enough as a perfume. The idea was turned into a candle, Santal 26. People liked the smell so much that they asked for something they could wear. After about two years of work and many test versions, Santal 33 was released. Penot described it as "a little deeper and more comfortable" than the candle.

Le Labo's launch text said Santal 33 was inspired by "the great American myth", with images of the open plains and smoky open fires like those in old cowboy advertising.

In 2014, The Estée Lauder Companies bought Le Labo, which helped bring Santal 33 to many more shops and countries.

Why it's so popular

• It felt new. In 2011, many popular perfumes leaned sweet or fresh. A dry, leathery, woody scent for anyone felt different and cool.
• Unisex from the start. It was never pitched as a men's or women's scent, which made it easy for couples and friends to share.
• The Le Labo experience. Hand-mixed bottles and personal labels made buying it feel special.
• Word of mouth. It spread through fashion, design and creative circles, and was linked to well-known fans, which helped it become a status scent.
• Easy to recognise. Its unusual mix of wood, leather and a slightly sour edge is memorable.

Its fame also made it very common in some cities. Some people now avoid it for that reason, much as with other hugely popular perfumes.

How it wears

Santal 33 is generally described as long-lasting, with moderate to strong projection in the first hours, then settling into a softer skin scent. Many wearers say it lingers on clothes, scarves and jackets.

Like many Ambroxan-based scents, it may seem quiet to the wearer while still being noticed by others. Skin type, weather and the amount applied all change how it wears.

Who will love it / who might not

You may love it if you:

• like woody, leathery or smoky scents
• want a unisex perfume that is not sweet
• enjoy dry, modern, "cool" scents more than florals or gourmands
• want an everyday signature scent

It might not be for you if you:

• dislike the slightly sour, pickle-like note some people notice
• want a creamy, sweet sandalwood
• prefer fresh, citrusy or floral perfumes
• want something rare, since Santal 33 is very widely worn

If possible, wear a sample for a full day. Its odd opening often makes more sense once it settles.

If you like it, try these

These perfumes share some of Santal 33's woody, smoky or skin-like feel, each in its own style:

• Tam Dao by Diptyque: a smooth, calm sandalwood scent, softer and less leathery.
• Santal Blush by Tom Ford: a richer, creamier and more spicy sandalwood.
• Another 13 by Le Labo: a clean, musky, ambery skin scent from the same house.
• By the Fireplace by Maison Margiela (Replica line): a warm, smoky woody scent that leans into the campfire mood.

How to wear it

• Two or three sprays is enough. It lasts and grows on clothes.
• Spray on skin and fabric. A light spray on a jumper or scarf keeps the woody trail going.
• Use it all year. It suits cool weather well, but its dry character also works on warm days.
• Day and night. It works for the office, casual weekends and evenings out.
• Wear it as a signature. Many people choose Santal 33 as their one everyday scent.