What does mint smell like? The coolest note in perfume, explained

Mint is one of the easiest smells in the world to recognise. We meet it every day in toothpaste, chewing gum, tea and sweets. That is exactly why perfumers handle it with care. Too much, and a perfume smells like mouthwash. Used well, mint gives a scent an icy, green freshness that nothing else can match.

What does it smell like?

Cool, fresh and green, with a bright, sharp lift. Depending on the type, you might notice:

• Cold: an icy, almost tingling coolness, strongest in peppermint
• Green leaves: the smell of crushed fresh leaves and stems
• Sweetness: a soft, candy-like sweetness, especially in spearmint
• Herbs: a slightly bitter, herbal edge, close to basil or sage
• Tea: a calm, soothing note, like a cup of fresh mint tea

In perfume, mint almost always appears in the opening. It gives that first spray a bright, wide-awake feeling.

Where it comes from

Mint is a family of fast-growing leafy plants in the genus Mentha. Three kinds matter most for scent:

Peppermint (Mentha × piperita) is a natural cross between watermint and spearmint. It is the sharpest and coolest mint. The United States, especially Oregon and Washington, is known for high-quality peppermint oil.

Spearmint (Mentha spicata) is native to Europe and parts of Asia. It is softer and sweeter, the smell of spearmint gum.

Cornmint (Mentha arvensis) is grown on a huge scale in India, mostly in Uttar Pradesh. India produces most of the world's mint oil, and much of it goes into making menthol.

How it's made

Mint oils are made by steam distillation. The leafy plants are cut, often left to dry a little, and then steamed. The oil rises with the steam and is collected as it cools.

The big difference between mints comes down to one main molecule in each oil:

1. Peppermint oil is rich in menthol. Menthol is what makes mint feel cold. It does not actually lower the temperature. It triggers the same nerve sensors in our skin and mouth that react to cold. Peppermint oil also contains menthone, which adds a fresh, slightly herbal note.
2. Spearmint oil is mostly carvone, a molecule with a sweet, green, gum-like smell. It contains very little menthol, so it feels warmer and softer.

A fun piece of chemistry: carvone comes in two mirror-image forms. One smells of spearmint. Its mirror twin smells of caraway seeds. Same atoms, different shape, completely different smell.

A short history of mint

• Ancient Greece: In myth, the nymph Minthe was turned into a mint plant by the goddess Persephone. The Greeks and Romans used mint to scent baths, oils and tables at feasts.
• The Roman world: The Roman writer Pliny wrote about mint in the first century. The Romans are believed to have brought it to Britain.
• The Middle East and North Africa: Mint became central to daily life, from mint tea in Morocco to fresh herbs in cooking across the region.
• 1696, England: Peppermint was found growing in Hertfordshire and described by the naturalist John Ray. In 1753 Carl Linnaeus gave it its scientific name.
• Perfume: For a long time, mint appeared in small amounts in colognes and herbal fragrances, mostly to add a quick, fresh lift.

Mint in modern perfume

Mint moved centre stage in the 1990s. Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier (1995), created by Francis Kurkdjian, opened with a bold mint and lavender accord over vanilla. It was fresh, sweet and a little cheeky, and became one of the most popular men's fragrances in the world.

In 2012, Versace Eros, by Aurélien Guichard, mixed mint with green apple, tonka and vanilla. In the same year, Luna Rossa by Prada, by Daniela Andrier, paired mint with lavender and clary sage for a cleaner, airier take. Mint is now a common way to add freshness to sweet, warm perfumes.

Real vs synthetic mint

Mint is one of the few notes where real oils are cheap and easy to find. Peppermint and spearmint oils are widely used in perfume.

• Natural mint oils smell rich, green and lifelike. They are used in many perfumes, from budget to luxury.
• Synthetic menthol and carvone are also made on a large scale, mostly for flavours, toothpaste and cosmetics. In perfume they help keep the mint note consistent.

The bigger challenge is not cost but balance. Perfumers mix mint with herbs, citrus or sweet notes so it smells like a fragrance, not a toothpaste.

What mint pairs well with

• Lavender: the classic fresh, herbal duo, used in many men's scents.
• Vanilla and tonka bean: create a sweet, cool contrast, like mint chocolate.
• Lemon, bergamot and grapefruit: make mint bright, sparkling and summery.
• Green tea: adds a calm, soft, gentle freshness.
• Vetiver and cedarwood: give mint a dry, grounded, woody base.
• Ambroxan: adds a modern, salty, skin-like glow.

Perfumes to try

Start fresh, then try the sweeter ones:

• Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca by Guerlain: fresh mint, green leaves and tea. Light and easy.
• Luna Rossa by Prada (2012): mint, lavender and bitter orange. Clean and smooth.
• Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier (1995): mint, lavender and vanilla. A modern classic.
• Eros by Versace (2012): mint, green apple, tonka and vanilla. Sweet, bold and loud.

How to wear mint

• Light, green mint perfumes are perfect for hot days, the gym bag or the office.
• Sweet mint perfumes, with vanilla or tonka, work well in cooler weather and at night.
• Mint fades fast. If you love it, look for a perfume that pairs it with woods or musk so the freshness lasts.
• Sweet mint scents can be strong. Two sprays are usually enough.

Who will love it

Anyone who loves fresh, clean and energising scents. If you enjoy mint tea, herbal gardens or the feeling of a cool breeze, mint is for you. And if you think mint only smells like toothpaste, try a mint-and-vanilla perfume. It may surprise you.