What does myrrh smell like? The bittersweet resin of ancient kings

Myrrh is one of the oldest perfumes in the world. It was burned in temples, used to embalm the dead in ancient Egypt and carried across deserts by camel caravans. Most people know it as one of the three gifts in the Christmas story. Fewer know what it smells like. The answer is stranger, and more beautiful, than you might expect.

What does it smell like?

Warm, bitter and resinous, with a cool, earthy side. In a good myrrh you might notice:

• Bitter resin: a dry, medicinal bitterness. The name comes from an old word meaning "bitter".
• Balsam: a warm, slightly sweet, church-like smell
• Mushroom and earth: a damp, forest-floor quality, especially in the opening
• Licorice and anise: a sweet, candy-like note in the drydown
• Smoke and incense: when burned, it gives a soft, dark smoke

Myrrh is darker and more bitter than its famous partner, frankincense. Frankincense is bright, lemony and airy. Myrrh is deeper, warmer and more earthy. Together they make the classic smell of an old church.

Where it comes from

Myrrh is a gum resin: a sticky mix of resin, gum and aromatic oil that oozes from certain trees. It comes mainly from Commiphora myrrha, a small, thorny tree that grows in hot, dry lands around the Horn of Africa and the Arabian Peninsula. Key regions include Somalia, Ethiopia, Eritrea, Yemen and Oman.

Several related Commiphora trees produce similar resins. One of these, sold as opoponax or "sweet myrrh", is softer, sweeter and more balsamic, and is also used in perfume.

How it's made

1. Tapping. Harvesters cut into the bark of the tree. The tree "bleeds" a pale yellow liquid to heal the wound.
2. Drying. The liquid hardens in the sun into reddish-brown lumps, called tears. Some resin also seeps out naturally.
3. Collecting and sorting. The tears are gathered by hand, cleaned and sorted by quality.
4. Extraction. For perfume, the resin is processed in one of two ways:
   • Essential oil: the resin is steam-distilled. The oil is lighter, fresher and more mushroomy.
   • Resinoid: the resin is dissolved in a solvent such as alcohol, which is then removed. This gives a thicker, warmer and more lasting material.

Much of the world's myrrh is still collected from wild or semi-wild trees by local harvesters, often in remote, dry areas.

A short history of myrrh

• Ancient Egypt: Egyptians used myrrh in embalming, in incense and in perfumed ointments. They sent expeditions to a land they called Punt, thought to be somewhere on the Horn of Africa or southern Arabia, to bring back myrrh and other treasures.
• The incense trade: Myrrh and frankincense made southern Arabia rich. Caravans carried them north through cities such as Petra and on to the Mediterranean world.
• Ancient Greece and Rome: Myrrh was so central to perfume that the Greek word for perfumed oil, myron, is linked to it. It was used in medicine, cosmetics and at funerals.
• The Bible: Myrrh appears many times. It was part of the holy anointing oil, used in beauty treatments in the Book of Esther, given by the Magi to the infant Jesus, and used at his burial.
• Medicine: Myrrh has long been used in mouthwashes and remedies for gums and minor wounds, and it still appears in some toothpastes today.

Myrrh in modern perfume

In modern perfume, myrrh is mostly a base note. It adds warmth, depth and staying power. You will find it in:

• Oriental or amber perfumes: where it blends with vanilla, spices and balsams.
• Incense perfumes: where it partners frankincense, woods and smoke.
• Gourmand and licorice accords: where its anise-like sweetness shines.

It can be hard to use in large amounts. Its bitter, mushroomy side can feel strange if not balanced. That makes the few perfumes that put myrrh in the spotlight especially interesting.

Natural vs synthetic myrrh

Myrrh is one of the notes that is still mostly natural in quality perfume. Its complex smell is hard to copy, so perfumers usually use real myrrh oil or resinoid, sometimes supported by other resins and balsams.

Supply can be fragile. Many harvesting areas face drought, conflict and poverty, and over-tapping can weaken trees. Some perfume companies now work directly with harvester communities to improve traceability and fair pay. If this matters to you, look for brands that explain where their resins come from.

What myrrh pairs well with

• Frankincense: the timeless pairing. Bright and dark, together.
• Vanilla and tonka: soften its bitterness into something warm and sweet.
• Rose: adds a romantic, velvety side.
• Spices: cinnamon, clove and saffron make it richer.
• Woods: sandalwood, cedar and oud add depth.
• Licorice and anise: bring out its candy-like sweetness.

Perfumes to try

• Myrrh & Tonka by Jo Malone London (Cologne Intense): warm, sweet and easy. A gentle first step.
• La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens: a classic. Bitter, bright and unusual, with an almond-like glow.
• Myrrhe Ardente by Goutal: smoky, warm and comforting.
• Myrrhe et Délires by Guerlain: myrrh with iris, rose and a touch of licorice.
• Myrrhe Impériale by Armani Privé: rich, smooth and luxurious.

How to wear myrrh

• It shines in autumn and winter, and in the evening.
• Myrrh is long-lasting. Start with one or two sprays.
• Give it time. The opening can be bitter or earthy, but the drydown is often warm and sweet.
• Try layering a light myrrh scent with vanilla or rose for a cozy blend.

Who will love it

Fans of incense, amber and resinous scents. Anyone drawn to old churches, ancient history or cozy winter evenings. If you like frankincense but want something warmer and deeper, myrrh is your next step.