What does neroli smell like? Sunlight in a bottle

Neroli is the smell of a bright morning by the sea. It is fresh, clean and floral all at once, and it has been a favourite of perfumers for more than 300 years. If you have ever worn a classic eau de cologne, you have almost certainly worn neroli.

What does it smell like?

Fresh, sparkling and gently floral, with a green, slightly bitter edge. Neroli sits somewhere between citrus and flower:

• Citrus: a light, orange-peel freshness
• Green and bitter: a crisp, leafy note, like crushing a twig
• Honeyed floral: a soft, sweet blossom underneath
• Soap and clean linen: a fresh, just-washed smell
• Light spice: a faint, almost metallic or peppery sparkle

Neroli is lighter and cleaner than orange blossom absolute, which is richer, sweeter and more heady. Think of neroli as the morning version of the flower, and orange blossom absolute as the evening version.

Where it comes from

Neroli comes from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, Citrus × aurantium, also called the bigarade or Seville orange. This is not the sweet orange we eat. Its fruit is sour, and it is mostly used for marmalade and liqueurs.

The same tree gives perfumers several different materials:

• Neroli oil: from the flowers, by steam distillation
• Orange blossom absolute: from the flowers, by solvent extraction
• Orange flower water: the scented water left over from distillation
• Petitgrain: from the leaves and twigs, greener and woodier
• Bitter orange oil: pressed from the peel

Today the main producers of neroli are Tunisia, Morocco and Egypt, with smaller amounts from Italy, Spain and France. The blossoms are picked by hand in spring, usually in April and May, often early in the morning.

How neroli is made

Fresh blossoms are steam-distilled soon after picking. As steam passes through the flowers, it carries the fragrant oil with it. When it cools, the oil floats on top of the water and is collected.

The water left behind is not waste. It still holds some of the scent and is sold as orange flower water, a common ingredient in cooking and skincare across the Mediterranean and the Middle East.

It takes around a tonne of blossoms to make one kilo of neroli oil. That makes it one of the more costly citrus-family materials.

Neroli's main aroma molecules include linalool, which gives a fresh, floral lift, along with linalyl acetate, limonene, nerolidol and small amounts of methyl anthranilate, which adds a sweet, grape-like warmth.

A short history of neroli

• The bitter orange: The tree is believed to have come from Southeast Asia and spread west through Persia and the Arab world. It reached the Mediterranean in the Middle Ages.
• The princess of Nerola: Neroli takes its name from Anne Marie Orsini, princess of Nerola, a town near Rome. In the late 17th century she is said to have made the scent fashionable by using it to perfume her gloves and her bath.
• Eau de cologne: In the early 18th century, perfumers in Cologne, Germany, created "eau de cologne", a light, refreshing blend of citrus and herbs with neroli at its heart. It became wildly popular across Europe.
• The French perfume industry: Grasse and the surrounding area grew bitter oranges for neroli and orange flower water for centuries.

Neroli in modern perfume

Neroli is a key part of almost every classic cologne. 4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser is one of the oldest colognes still widely sold, and neroli is part of its fresh, citrus-herbal formula.

In more recent years, neroli has had a revival. Neroli Portofino by Tom Ford became a bestseller, presenting neroli as a luxury holiday scent. Many niche brands now offer neroli as a stand-alone note.

Real vs synthetic neroli

Natural neroli oil is widely used, but it is costly and can vary from year to year. Perfumers often support or replace it with synthetics, such as linalool, nerolidol and methyl anthranilate, plus other fresh and floral molecules.

Neroli, like most citrus-family oils, contains natural compounds such as linalool and limonene. These are listed allergens in some regions, including the EU, and must be named on product labels above certain levels.

What neroli pairs well with

• Bergamot and lemon: the classic cologne combination.
• Petitgrain: another part of the same tree. Adds green, woody freshness.
• Lavender and rosemary: give a herbal, clean effect.
• White musks: keep neroli soft, clean and close to the skin.
• Orange blossom and jasmine: add richness and depth.

Perfumes to try

From classic to modern:

• 4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser: a traditional cologne. Cheap, cheerful and refreshing.
• Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès: bright, green and zesty.
• Neroli Portofino by Tom Ford: a polished, luxurious take on the classic cologne.
• Cologne Bigarade by Frédéric Malle: bitter orange with a darker, spicier twist.
• Fleurs d'Oranger by Serge Lutens: when you are ready to move from neroli to the richer orange blossom.

How to wear neroli

• Neroli is perfect for hot weather, mornings and the office.
• Spray generously. Neroli scents are usually light and fade faster than rich perfumes.
• Keep a bottle in the fridge in summer for a cooling splash.
• Neroli suits everyone, of any age or style.

Who will love it

Anyone who likes clean, fresh, uplifting scents. Neroli is a great choice if you find most florals too heavy, and an easy everyday perfume for people who don't like strong fragrances.