What does peony smell like? The fresh, rosy flower perfumers must rebuild

Peony is one of the most popular notes in modern perfume. It appears in hundreds of fresh, pretty floral scents. Yet there is a twist: there is no natural peony oil in your perfume. Every peony note you have ever smelled was built by a perfumer, piece by piece.

What does it smell like?

Fresh, light and rosy, with a fruity, slightly watery sparkle. Peony is softer and greener than rose:

• Fresh rose: a clean, light, rosy floral
• Green and dewy: like crushed stems or petals covered in morning dew
• Fruit: hints of apple, lychee, raspberry or pear
• Citrus: a light, lemony freshness
• Soft spice or honey: some real peonies have a faint peppery or honeyed side

Real peonies vary a lot. Some smell strongly of rose. Others smell lemony, spicy, or barely smell at all. Perfume peony usually captures the fresh, pink, rosy-fruity type.

Where it comes from

Peonies belong to the genus Paeonia. There are a few dozen wild species, and thousands of garden varieties. The two main groups are:

• Herbaceous peonies (such as Paeonia lactiflora), which die back to the ground each winter. These are the big, blousy garden flowers you see in florists' shops.
• Tree peonies (such as Paeonia suffruticosa), woody shrubs that are especially important in Chinese culture.

Peonies are native to Asia, Europe and western North America. China has bred them for well over a thousand years, and the city of Luoyang is famous for its tree peonies.

Why peony can't be extracted

Peony is what perfumers call a "mute" flower: it smells lovely in the garden, but its scent cannot be captured in a useful way.

• The petals hold a lot of water and give almost no fragrant material.
• The scent molecules are fragile and are easily lost or changed during distillation or solvent extraction.
• Any extract that does come out does not smell like the living flower.

So perfumers do something clever instead. They place a glass dome over a living flower and use a technique called headspace analysis to capture and identify the molecules floating in the air around it. Then they rebuild that smell with materials they can buy.

How a peony accord is made

A peony "accord" (a blend that recreates a smell) is usually built from:

• Phenylethyl alcohol: a soft, clean rose note. Studies of some tree peonies found this molecule makes up a large share of their scent.
• Citronellol and geraniol: add a natural, rosy depth.
• Rose oxide: gives a green, bright, slightly metallic rose freshness.
• Hedione: a jasmine-like molecule that adds air and radiance.
• Green notes like cis-3-hexenol: give a crushed-stem, dewy freshness.
• Fruity notes: such as raspberry, lychee or apple effects, for sparkle.

Every brand's peony is a little different, because every perfumer builds it their own way. That is part of the fun.

A short history of peony

• China: The peony has been grown in China for many centuries, both as a medicinal plant and as an ornamental flower. It became known as the "king of flowers" and a symbol of wealth, honour and good fortune. It is a common motif in Chinese art, porcelain and textiles.
• Japan: Peonies arrived in Japan from China and became a popular subject in art and gardens.
• Ancient Greece: The name Paeonia is linked to Paeon, a physician of the gods in Greek myth.
• Europe: Some peonies have grown in Europe since ancient times, but the spectacular Chinese varieties arrived in European gardens from around the late 18th century and became hugely popular.

Peony in modern perfume

Because it has to be built from synthetics, peony is a fairly modern note. It became especially popular from the late 1990s onwards, when fresh, light, pink florals were in fashion.

Today it appears in many bestselling scents. Chloé Eau de Parfum pairs peony with rose and a powdery finish. Peony & Blush Suede by Jo Malone made peony the star, with soft suede and apple. Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet uses peony for a light, airy, romantic feel.

Real vs synthetic peony

With peony, there is no "real" option. Every peony perfume uses an accord. This is not a weakness:

• It means peony is affordable and consistent.
• It avoids pressure on natural resources.
• Perfumers can make peony fresher, fruitier or rosier to suit the perfume.

If a product claims to contain "natural peony essential oil" for fragrance, treat the claim with caution. It is far more likely to be an accord, or simply a different oil with a peony name.

What peony pairs well with

• Rose: the natural partner. Together they make a soft, romantic bouquet.
• Fruits: lychee, pear, apple and berries make peony bright and juicy.
• Suede and musk: keep it soft, smooth and skin-like.
• Citrus: grapefruit and bergamot add sparkle.
• Woods and patchouli: give a light peony more depth and staying power.

Perfumes to try

From light to rich:

• Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet by Dior: fresh, light and pretty. A gentle first step.
• Peony & Blush Suede by Jo Malone: peony with apple and soft suede.
• Chloé Eau de Parfum by Chloé: peony and rose with a powdery finish.
• Pivoine Suzhou by Armani Privé: peony with a warmer, patchouli-touched base.

How to wear peony

• Peony is perfect for spring and summer, and for daytime.
• It is a safe choice for the office: light, fresh and rarely overwhelming.
• Peony perfumes often fade faster than heavier florals, so reapply during the day if you like.
• Layer it with a musk or a light woody scent for longer wear.

Who will love it

People who like fresh, pretty, easy-to-wear florals, anyone who finds rose too heavy, and newcomers to perfume. Peony is one of the friendliest floral notes there is.