What does pink pepper smell like? The sparkle that isn't really pepper

Look at the notes list of almost any modern perfume and there is a good chance you will see "pink pepper". It has become one of the most used top notes of the 21st century. Yet pink pepper is not pepper at all. It comes from a completely different tree, and it smells less like a peppermill and more like a glass of something pink and fizzy.

What does it smell like?

Pink pepper is bright, light and sparkling. It is spicy, but in a cool, crisp way rather than a hot one. You might notice:

• Sparkle: a fizzy, almost electric freshness that lifts the opening of a perfume
• Fruit: a soft, berry-like sweetness
• Rose: a gentle rosy facet that makes it a natural partner for florals
• Resin and pine: a light, piney, resinous edge, a little like juniper
• Gentle spice: a mild peppery tingle, much softer than black pepper

Pink pepper is mostly a top note. It is what you smell in the first few minutes. After that, it fades into a quiet, slightly woody hum and lets the rest of the perfume take over.

Where it comes from

Pink pepper is the dried berry of two South American trees:

• Brazilian peppertree (Schinus terebinthifolia)
• Peruvian peppertree (Schinus molle)

These trees belong to the cashew family, the same plant family as mango, pistachio and sumac. True black pepper comes from a vine called Piper nigrum, which is not related at all. Pink pepper just looks like a peppercorn and has a mildly peppery taste, so it borrowed the name. In French it is called baie rose, meaning "pink berry".

The Peruvian peppertree is native to the Andes and nearby dry regions of South America. The Brazilian peppertree grows along the coast of Brazil and nearby countries. For perfume and food, berries are also grown in places such as Réunion, Madagascar and Brazil. Both trees have spread far from home and are now seen as invasive weeds in parts of Africa, Australia and elsewhere.

One safety note: because pink pepper is in the cashew family, people with tree nut allergies are sometimes advised to be careful with eating it.

How it's made

Perfumers use two main forms:

1. Essential oil. The dried berries are steam-distilled. The oil is bright, fresh and peppery.
2. CO2 extract. Pressurised carbon dioxide is used to draw out the aroma without high heat. This version is often described as softer and fuller, with more of the fruity body of the berry.

Pink pepper's smell comes mainly from terpenes, a large family of light, fresh-smelling molecules. They are the same family that gives citrus peel and pine needles their sparkle. That is why pink pepper feels so lively in the opening of a perfume, and also why it fades fairly quickly.

A short history of pink pepper

Pink pepper has a much shorter history in perfume than most spices, but a long one in South America.

• The Andes: The Peruvian peppertree was important to ancient Andean cultures. The Wari people, who flourished roughly between 600 and 1000 CE, used its berries to make chicha, a fermented drink. The Inca later made drinks, syrups and porridge from the fruit.
• France: The French name baie rose stuck because pink peppercorns found a home in French kitchens, and by the early 1980s France was exporting them.
• A brief ban: In 1982 the United States stopped imports of pink peppercorns from France, saying they could cause reactions in some people. France disagreed, and the ban was later lifted.

Pink pepper in modern perfume

Pink pepper became a perfumer's favourite in recent decades, and today it appears in a huge number of launches, from fresh men's scents to sweet florals.

Why so popular? It solves a common problem. Perfumers want an opening that feels exciting and modern, but not too sharp, sour or heavy. Pink pepper gives a sparkling lift that blends easily with flowers, fruit, woods and spice. It adds energy without stealing the show.

It also became part of the bright, peppery style seen in big modern men's fragrances. Dior Sauvage layers pink pepper with Sichuan pepper and black pepper over a woody base. Spicebomb by Viktor&Rolf (2012) opens with pink pepper before moving into cinnamon, saffron and chilli.

Natural vs synthetic pink pepper

Natural pink pepper oil and CO2 extract are both widely available and affordable, so many perfumes use the real thing. Perfumers may also build a pink pepper effect from fresh terpenes and other bright materials, or blend natural oil with synthetics to make it last longer.

What pink pepper pairs well with

• Rose: the classic pairing. Pink pepper makes rose feel fresh and modern.
• Berries and blackcurrant: brings out pink pepper's fruity side.
• Jasmine and orange blossom: adds sparkle to white flowers.
• Bergamot and grapefruit: for bright, citrusy openings.
• Woods and vetiver: gives a clean, crisp frame.
• Tobacco and rum: a fizzy contrast to warm, boozy notes.

Perfumes to try

• Replica Jazz Club by Maison Margiela: pink pepper and neroli opening onto rum, tobacco and vanilla. A cosy evening scent with a bright start.
• Spicebomb by Viktor&Rolf (2012): pink pepper leading into cinnamon, saffron and chilli.
• Donna Born in Roma by Valentino: pink pepper, blackcurrant and bergamot over jasmine and vanilla. Sweet and sparkling.
• Sauvage by Dior: pepper, pink pepper and Sichuan pepper over a woody, ambery base. Fresh and very popular.

How to wear pink pepper

• Don't judge a pink pepper perfume by its first five minutes. The sparkle is real, but it fades. Wait for what comes next.
• Pink pepper is easy to wear in any season.
• It works well in daytime and in the office, especially in floral or fresh blends.
• If you love the opening of a perfume but not the drydown, look for others where pink pepper sits over a base you like better.

Who will love it

People who like bright, lively openings and modern, polished perfumes. If you enjoy rose, berries or fresh citrus, pink pepper will feel like a natural extra. It is also a good fit if you want "spicy" without heat or heaviness.