What does suede smell like? Soft leather, explained

Suede is leather with the rough edges smoothed away. Think of a soft pair of gloves, the inside of a new handbag, or a velvety jacket that feels warm the moment you put it on. In perfume, suede is the gentle, quiet side of the leather family. It is less smoky and less wild than classic leather, and that makes it one of the easiest leather notes to love.

What does it smell like?

Soft, warm and slightly powdery. A good suede note usually has a few layers:

• Soft leather: a clean, gentle leather smell, without heavy smoke or tar
• Powder: a dry, velvety, almost cosmetic softness, often from iris
• Skin: a warm, slightly musky, "close to the body" feel
• Fruit: a hint of apricot or raspberry in some suede accords
• Light spice: a touch of saffron-like warmth

The easiest way to picture it: classic leather is a biker's jacket. Suede is a pair of fine kid gloves.

Where it comes from

In the real world, suede is a kind of leather. Most leather is used with its smooth outer side facing out. Suede uses the inner side of the hide, which is buffed into a soft, fuzzy surface called a nap. It is often made from lamb, goat, calf or deer skin.

The word comes from the French phrase gants de Suède, meaning "gloves of Sweden". Soft Swedish gloves of this type were fashionable in the 19th century, and English speakers shortened the name to "suede".

The smell of real suede comes from the hide itself and from the tanning process used to turn skin into leather. It is mild, dry and a little sweet.

How it's made

Perfumers do not extract scent from suede. Leather notes in perfume are always accords, blends of materials that together suggest leather. A suede accord is a softer version of a leather accord. Common building blocks include:

1. Quinolines. Materials such as isobutyl quinoline give a dry, green, leathery edge. In suede, they are used gently.
2. Saffron-leather materials. Safraleine, made by Givaudan, smells leathery and spicy, a little like saffron. It adds warmth and a velvety feel.
3. Iris and orris. The powdery smell of iris root gives suede its soft, cosmetic, gloved texture.
4. Musks. Clean musks add the warm, skin-like quality.
5. Ready-made bases. Fragrance houses sell leather bases to perfumers. One example is Suederal LT from IFF, a dry, suede-like leather base with tobacco and smoky touches.

Small amounts of birch tar, castoreum-like notes or styrax can be added for depth. Too much, and the suede turns into heavy, smoky leather.

A short history of suede

• Perfumed gloves: From the 16th century, glove makers in Europe scented their leather with flowers, spices, resins and musk to cover the strong smell of tanning. Grasse, in southern France, was a glove-making town before it became the centre of French perfume.
• Spanish leather: A style called Peau d'Espagne ("Spanish skin") described scented leather, often soft chamois, perfumed with flowers, spice and musk. It is one of the ancestors of the suede note.
• Russian leather: In 1924, Ernest Beaux created Cuir de Russie for Chanel. It was inspired by Russian leather, which was treated with birch tar. This was a darker, smokier style, but it made leather a serious perfume theme.
• Modern suede: In the 2000s, perfumers moved towards softer, cleaner leathers. Suede became a favourite note in niche and luxury perfume.

Suede in modern perfume

Daim Blond by Serge Lutens (2004), by Christopher Sheldrake, is one of the best-known suede perfumes. Daim is French for suede, and the scent pairs soft leather with apricot, iris and cardamom.

Kelly Calèche by Hermès (2007), by Jean-Claude Ellena, is a floral leather that feels more like suede than rough leather, airy and light on the skin. Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford (2007) is bolder, with raspberry, saffron and a suede-and-leather base. Ombré Leather by Tom Ford is another popular example, with cardamom and jasmine over a soft, pale leather.

Real vs synthetic suede

Unlike rose or vanilla, suede has no natural extract. Every suede note is a creation.

• Natural materials can play a part. Iris, saffron, castoreum-type notes and birch tar all bring leathery or powdery effects. But birch tar is now restricted under international safety guidelines (from IFRA, the perfume industry's safety body), so it is used in small amounts.
• Synthetic materials such as quinolines, Safraleine, clean musks and ready-made suede bases do most of the work. They make suede soft, safe, consistent and affordable.

No animals are needed to make a suede perfume.

What suede pairs well with

• Iris: the closest partner of all. Iris makes suede powdery and luxurious.
• Saffron: a warm, spicy glow that feels rich and modern.
• Peach and apricot: soft, fuzzy fruit that echoes suede's texture.
• Musk: for a clean, skin-like, "second skin" effect.
• Tuberose and white florals: a creamy floral leather, elegant and feminine.
• Vanilla: a cosy, sweet base that makes suede feel even softer.

Perfumes to try

Start soft, then go stronger:

• Kelly Calèche by Hermès (2007): light, floral and airy. An easy first suede.
• Daim Blond by Serge Lutens (2004): the classic suede perfume. Apricot, iris and soft leather.
• Ombré Leather by Tom Ford: pale, smooth leather with cardamom and jasmine.
• Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford (2007): raspberry, saffron and suede. Rich and long-lasting.

How to wear suede

• Suede suits almost any season. It is warm enough for winter and soft enough for spring.
• Choose your style. Floral suedes feel elegant and daytime. Spicy, fruity suedes suit evenings.
• It works for everyone. Suede is one of the most unisex notes in perfume.
• Give it time. Suede often appears in the heart and base, so wait 20 to 30 minutes before you judge it.

Who will love it

People who like leather but find it too smoky, fans of soft, powdery and "expensive-smelling" perfume, and anyone who wants a quiet, comforting scent with real character. If you love the feel of a fine leather glove, suede is your note.